After recently returning from a land far far away, I have finally picked up my trusty pen and blog notepad to write you a post as a very different Sophie. But don't panic! In some ways yes, things are different now, but in many others I remain more ‘me’ than ever. Sophie with the contrast turned up for extra vibrancy! Sophie with the caffeinated coffee (she's back!) Sophie with the hormonal fatigue and achy leg.. (annoyingly she's still here.) They say travel expands our minds and enriches our soul. I say it depends where you go or what your limitations are. An all-inclusive resort where you eat and drink the same things as you do at home and lay around scrolling your phone all day probably isn't going to give you much horizon broadening.
Unless, maybe you get horrendously sunburnt and suddenly have a renewed sense of gratitude for the skin you previously had, when it wasn't peeling. Obviously, there's absolutely nothing wrong with those kind of holidays! If that's what you enjoy and is exactly what you need- keep doing that! I like that sometimes too! For about two days. Then I get cabin fever, need to hike up a hill, find a bench, rent a bicycle, seek out some local cuisine, get lost, talk to strangers, make a friend and probably end up eating ice cream while watching the sunset with no idea or care how I'll get back to my accommodation. Along with this, I've also realised I like to be challenged in some way. Setting myself a little goal, which could be as simple as embarking on a pancake tour of The States to find the greatest blueberry pancakes, or most recently- pack myself off to a faraway land as remote as I’ve ever been. Cut off from all civilisation, learning about ancient sacred cultures, Mother Earth and really getting to know my true inner self. Whether I liked her or not. So my friends -I went to the Amazon rainforest! Iquitos, Peru to be exact. On the same day the Paddington movie dropped. Because clearly I wanted to go one better than just a cinema trip. I wanted the real thing! Plus, this had been years in the making. Years of thinking about it, signs from the universe being shoved in my face to the point I couldn't ignore it and I needed to scratch that itch, before the mosquitoes even got to me.
Two years researching, bookmarking websites, speaking or face-timing with people who’d done similar. To eventually saving up, booking and paying, right before breaking my femur! But after much rescheduling and rehab I finally got there. With my 80-litre rucksack, over three week’s worth of hormones, many ugly but practical safari clothes, and a boonie hat that made me look like Dora the Explorer. As you can imagine this was a very different trip for me. It wasn't LA, New York or Miami. Who even was I? I was about to find out! (hopefully.)
Despite all the risks involved, I wasn't actually scared. I knew I'd be fine once I got there and reached the retreat centre. Via bus ride, boat ride up the Amazon and one hour trek through the jungle. I'd spent a fortune on all the recommended travel vaccines against EVERYTHING, so I wasn't worried about getting Yellow fever, MMR, malaria or rabies! I was fully covered. I was more worried about the uncontrollable hormonal bleeds and hormonal fatigue I constantly battle, and how I couldn't afford for that to happen somewhere so remote, with no access to feminine hygiene products, or any way of disposing of them. Not to mention the physical pain, skin breakouts, low mood and sheer anxiety that comes with them. (I know you ladies feel me on this.)
In order to attempt to police this potential jungle hell, I had a phone appointment with the Hormone Doctor and we agreed to double up on my progesterone while I was away. After an initial false alarm as my body re-acclimatised, this worked a treat and I was able to fully relax into Jungle Jane life. No electricity, hot water or wi-fi. No familiar faces or home comforts and most of all- NO PHONE! Which actually turned out to be my favourite part! (Yes, I'm as surprised as you are.)
I quickly bonded with the rest of the group. Quicker than I’ve ever bonded with anyone. It was a safe space; no judgement, no pre-conceptions, come as you are. We instantly became like family and saw one another very quickly at our very worst, and ultimately very best. The Shipibo healers prescribed me Camu Camu for my bones, along with ginger and various other plant remedies for my many ailments. The overall love and care they showed for me made me cry on a daily basis.
There were hard days in there. Some of the most challenging I've ever experienced on so many levels, but they were also the most beautiful.
The staff and facilitators did warn us the experience would be “Brutiful”… both brutal and beautiful, and they weren't wrong. I wouldn't have changed it for the world though. Not a single second. Even when things didn't quite go to plan…
No, I didn't get attacked by the jaguar we repeatedly heard roaring and screeching in the distance, but I did almost find myself sleeping on a bench at the base of Machu Picchu.
After emerging from the jungle I took two planes, a mini bus through the mountains and a train ride through Sacred Valley where I'd planned to stay for three days and venture to the ancient Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. It would be downright rude to be in that part of the world and not make the trip to see a newly crowned 'Seven Wonder'. To continue with and hold on to the Zen I found in the jungle, I'd booked a peaceful and remote lodge high up in the mountains, overlooking actual Machu Picchu. It looked basic but homely, run by a couple who provided breakfast AND dinner! The reviews were excellent, and the view from the loo sold it to me. After a couple of message exchanges with the usual “We look forward to hosting you” etc- which they annoyingly would only reply in Spanish, I warned them my ETA wouldn't be till at least 10:00 PM. By taxi from the town, if that's OK! I'm sure it would be. But while on the train approaching Aguas Calientes, drenched from the rain, delirious from a 3:30 AM alarm and constant travel, I had a moment to run their last message through Google translate and I was not expecting their response.
“You cannot get to us by taxi. You can only reach us by HORSEBACK or a 4 hour hike up the mountain.”
Are they having a laugh?! It's late at night, pitch black, chucking it down, and I’m about to disembark the train! I'm hardly going to be able to acquire a horse at this time of night, or hike in the dark with my femur and rucksack that weighs more than me! WHY was there no mention of this on their booking site??! And WHY are they not offering ‘Horse rental’ along with breakfast and dinner?
Obviously, I had to cancel as I physically could not get there, and spending a night sleeping on a bench with the stray dogs became a genuine possibility. I would make a small block for my head with the many boxes of progesterone pills and oestrogen patches I had. Thankfully it didn't quite come to that, and there was ‘room at the inn’ at a place I found near the train station. This turned out to be exactly where I needed to be over the coming days. Thus, reaffirming my biggest lesson and learned belief so far in this adventure:
Everything always works out for your highest good. Even if it's not the way you planned or what you wanted. You just have to trust.
And use Google Translate.
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